Day 50 – Kinlochbervie (Loch Inchard) to Kyle of Tongue – Talmine

I can’t believe this is the start of the 8th week of this trip – it really has gone so fast!  Here we are right at the top of Scotland, the last place you can visit on the coastline on the West coast before you start traveling along the top.

I remember (just!) when I was at school and the teacher used to make us draw a map of Britain.  I’ve never been particularly good at drawing, and my map of Britain used to look like a strange blooby monster who could easily have appeared on an early version of Dr Who – but I was always enjoyed drawing the top – its the easy bit – you just round the corner then just draw a bit of a wavy line and make it look like a lid on the country!

Well here we are – about to round the corner!

So, you might say, “I suppose you had a good nights sleep last night?”  Sadly, the answer is no.

Let me tell you about my cabin – I sleep in an aft cabin, which is lovely, very luxurious in fact, a small double bed with a shelf alongside, a cupboard, and an ensuite (the best bit, and much appreciated as the only girl onboard!) and here I am very close to sailing along my wavy line, sitting on a lovely boat in a very remote part of Scotland.

Each time a boat comes by, or if there is any movement in the sea, the water slaps across the stern.  This can be a very soothing sound on occasions, but, combined with the squeaky fenders as we sit snugly alongside another boat, and the sound of the generators groaning all night, (as this is a working harbour), it makes it a tad difficult to settle.

I’m not complaining, it is lovely, and I’m so very lucky to be part of the Round Britain Experience, but it does explain the need for siestas when they can be taken!

Anyway, todays sailing has been wonderful indeed!

We prepared the boat, not sure if our journey would take us all the way to Scrabster today, but we planned to anchor on the way.  In preparation, we prepared tonights dinner – Haggis Neeps and Tatties – we felt this would be a fitting meal for the top of Scotland!

I then went to seek out the shower facilities.  This is indeed a working port – nothing touristy about this place!

Find the seal sneaking up on the fishing vessel - they are the seagulls of the water in the harbour!

Fishermen sorting their nets in harbour

A beautiful harbour

A beautiful harbour with evidence of fishing - fishermen are not known for tidying up!

The showers were in the harbour building, which was huge – and empty!

The fishing Industry! A massive harbour building with just a bit of activity right at the end

There were only facilities for men, with an afterthought – a sign added to the door to include women!

Male or female facilities?

I enjoyed a hot shower, and tried not to spoil my enjoyment by hearing men talking as they washed in the nearby sink whilst I showered!

I continued to take photos on my way back to the boat – but then my lovely Canon camera died on me!  I’ve sent text to my dear friend Steph (a professional photographer) who has suggested it might be the internal battery!  Why didnt I know about this?

“Preparation and Planning” didnt take this into consideration!  I’m now without my dear camera.  As I have already said, its the photos which tell the story, so for now, you will have to rely on my trusty point and press and my literary prose!

We enjoyed a beautiful sail out of Kinlochbervie, and we headed towards Cape Wrath – it looked so beautiful in the distance and the landscape certainly lived up to its name!

Cape Wrath

As if it were not sufficiently momentous for us to be sailing around such a well known and little visited landmark, we were all absolutely delighted when we spotted a fabulous male orca breaking the surface right at the side of our boat!

I squealed as I saw it, and couldn’t get my words out but could only point towards it!  I just grabbed my camera in time and managed a quick shot of it just to prove its true!  Some compensation for my lovely camera breaking!

We are still talking about it, it really has been a highlight of this trip.  The Round Britain Experience has enabled us to see porpoise, dolphin, numerous seals, a basking shark, minke and now orca!  What a fabulous experience.

We couldn’t believe the weather today – we were up on the top of Scotland, in the sun, feeling very warm and wearing sun screen!

I make it into a photograph on occasions!

The landscape is absolutely stunning, so desolate yet so beautiful!

The North Scotland coastline is absolutely gorgeous

We neared our destination for the evening, and sought a good anchorage for the night.  We rounded the entrance and was guided in by John who is navigating today.  Our initial find looked great, but there was quite a swell and we would have had a very rocky night, with the boat rolling around so we moved the boat to the opposite side of the loch and found a picturesque spot.

Beautiful Talmine on the Kyle of Tongue

So glad food was prepared earlier, as it was so nice at 8pm to tuck into some warm tasty food – and haggis neeps and tatties hit the spot when you have been sailing all day – and are sitting on the top of Scotland!

As the light faded, we went up deck to admire the sunset

It was beautiful indeed and we were joined by porpoise and seals who enjoyed looking at it too!

Our delight was cut short as we were driven below by the midges!  We have been very lucky with these so far, have seen very few – but we can see midge hoods and sprays for sale in the shops, so knew they are a problem in lots of other areas too.

John, Mike and I are now relaxing in the saloon watching another DVD as its 9.30pm and Rick has turned into a pumpkin – he loves his early nights!

Time for us to turn in shortly and finish the last part of this leg and arrive in Scrabster!  Goodnight!

About Jill Beckett

I hope you enjoy reading this blog, it is written purely for entertainment value as a way of keeping a journal for myself and helping to stay in touch with family and friends around the world. I started writing this blog in 2011 when I gave up my job in the UK as a midwife ("The Baby Catcher"!) and began circumnavigating Britain on a 45ft yacht. I try to "Live Life to the Full", "Think out of the Box" “Live a life less Ordinary” and any other cliches for making the best of it that you can think of! We really do only have one life, and Im trying to make the very best of it, I hope this blog inspires you to do likewise. Work sometimes gets in the way, and I often return to “baby catching” but I try to have as many adventures as I can. I have written about some of these here, from my time circumnavigating the coast of Britain, living in Bali and training as a Dive Master and Scuba Dive Instructor, sailing from Malaysia to the E Coast of Australia and living in Australia and New Zealand. Drop me a message, I would love to hear from you and see what you think of my blog! Mwah x
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