My Surfing Phase

“You are never too old to try new things” I told myself as I straddled a surf board like a beached whale, waves of salty water bashing into my face, salt water stinging my eyes and my thighs getting sore from several attempts to stand on a board and look like a cool surf babe.

still smiling

still smiling

As my children have grown and become less dependent on me, I have had a thirst to try new things and make the very best life has to offer. My son, Callum says that whilst I’m an inspiration to him, I am a crazy mummy. He describes my attempts to try new things as “phases” in my life, some have lasted longer than others. I somehow think my “Surfing Phase” will be very short term!

My gorgeous son, who would look much better on a surf board than I!

My gorgeous son, who would look much better on a surf board than I!

So it was, during my brief return visit to Bali that Felicia, a gorgeous 23 year old Swedish woman, with a beautiful smile, blonde hair and legs that reached up to my armpits suggested I join her and her friend Matilda, another young Swedish jewel, at Kuta beach to go surfing.

Hiding between two Gorgeous Beach Babes

Hiding between two Gorgeous Beach Babes

I had just celebrated my fiftieth birthday and was feeling a little jaded having consumed the best part of a bottle of red wine, (an unusual event for me in Indonesia due the extortionate price of anything drinkable there), but Felicia gave me little choice, I was going surfing.

My dear divegoddess friend Sonia enlisted her Sumatran boyfriend Iwan to serve as our instructor. He is one of the many local instructors who hang around Kuta beach enticing tourists onto their boards to enjoy the beautiful surf there.

Sonia, Iwan and I

Sonia, Iwan and I

We had a practice on the beach, I chose the smallest board, thinking it would be easier, and was soon corrected by Iwan and given the largest board which I could barely carry.

It was a bit of a struggle to even carry my board

It was a bit of a struggle to even carry my board

The board was laid on the beach and we were shown how to lye on it, paddle and when a wave came, to push up on hands, in true press up style, jump onto the back leg then front with no use of knees, it seemed pretty easy as I practiced on the sand, I was getting rather proud of myself, keeping up with the twenty somethings, that was until I hit the sea.

This looks pretty easy!

This looks pretty easy!

Iwan was very patient with me, but his words “Up Up Up Up….now” still reverborate in my mind.

All that beach practice coming to fruition, Im getting up......

All that beach practice coming to fruition, Im getting up……

Oh my oh my, Im actually riding a wave.....how cool!

Oh my oh my, Im actually riding a wave…..how cool!

Now you see me, now you don't....splash!

Now you see me, now you don’t….splash!

Felicia looking cool as a surf babe

Felicia looking cool as a surf babe

This is how it is done....in 10cm of water that is (sorry Felicia!)

This is how it is done….in 10cm of water that is (sorry Felicia!)

Felicia and Iwan

Felicia and Iwan

Couldnt resist popping this action shot in!

Couldnt resist popping this action shot in!

Beautiful Felicia

Beautiful Felicia

The lovely Matilda

The lovely Matilda

I had a wonderful time, and did in fact manage to get to a standing position on the board, albeit for a very short time and felt I got a real taste for surfing but feel that I am probably 30 years too late to start this new phase…..

I prefer to just lye on that board!

I prefer to just lye on that board!

About Jill Beckett

I hope you enjoy reading this blog, it is written purely for entertainment value! Its just a way of keeping a journal for myself as well as staying in touch with family and friends around the world. I try to "live life to the full", "think out of the box" and any other cliches for making the best of it that you can think of! I started writing this blog in 2011 when I gave up my job in the UK as a midwife ("The Baby Catcher"!) and began circumnavigating Britain in a 45ft yacht and trained as a skipper prior to going to Australia to live for a year. I then returned to the UK for 17 months where my feet became itchy once more and I moved to Bali to take my scuba diving to a professional level ("Jilly Fish") and trained as a Dive Master, then a Dive Instructor. I then sailed from Malaysia, through Indonesia diving along the way eventually making it to Townsville, Queensland, in October 2014, a 4000+mile trip, on a 50ft Catamaran! Following this I spent a wonderful year living in Australia, working on a casual basis as a baby catcher (midwife), and as "Jillyfish (dive Instructor) on the Great Barrier Reef as well as sailing as much as I can on a beautiful 44.7 Beneteau called Shazam. My newest chapter finds me back in the UK, living on the South West Coast in gorgeous Devon! Drop me a message, I would love to hear from you and what you think of my blog! Mwah x
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2 Responses to My Surfing Phase

  1. Lynette says:

    Jill,

    Well done you for surfing. I used to surf as a teenager and it is really hard to learn, so the fact you even stood up once on your board on your first attempt is really something to be proud of. They give you a big board as they are easier to ride than a smaller board – way easier. I loved seeing the pictures. Keep going girl! It is fantastic exercise and once you start standing up it becomes addictive. I was ”tubed”once and that is when you are surfing right inside the wave and you are surrounded by a circled wall of water and it is truly a spiritual experience! Have fun!

    Love,

    Lynette

    • Jill Beckett says:

      Thank you Lynette! Im not sure I will be surfing as a regular activity, but it must be amazing to be inside a circular wall of water! I think I will stick to scuba diving! Lovely to hear from you x

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